White Grass, WV

By Michelle Anderson and Mark Steinmetz

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Before booking that expensive flight to Vermont or submitting to the mind-numbingly long drive to the upper expanses of Michigan, consider this: Perhaps the best cross-country ski destination in the entire East is located in our very own Ohio River Valley. Welcome to White Grass, Canaan Valley, WV.

White Grass is a family-run operation, situated at the base of Cabin Mountain. It’s sandwiched between two downhill ski resorts (Canaan Valley and Timberline) with a little over half of the trail system owned by the nearby Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge. “The terrain makes it unique for a cross-country ski area. It’s a little bit on the rolly, hilly and, at places, even steep side,” says owner Chip Chase. About 25-30 kilometers of the 50 kilometers of trails are groomed.

Canaan Valley, a high-elevation basin (3,200 to 4,400 feet) in the Allegheny Mountains, is an anomaly for Mid-Atlantic Appalachia, having a climate more comparable to that of the boreal forests of Canada. Add in its unique geographic position, which draws down lake effect snows moving in from the northwest, and the sum is an average snowfall in excess of 150 inches annually.

With all of that terrain and snow, White Grass welcomes all types of skiers at all skill levels. “The backcountry skiers feel very welcome. We also clear telemarking woods,” Chip says. “Skaters and backcountry skiers … are usually at different locations and have different priorities, but I feel like White Grass has a place for both those groups.” Ski school classes reflect this attitude, covering basics of cross-country, telemark and skate skiing.

Blissfully glide through open meadows and up and down wooded hillsides on favorite trails such as Fern Gully and Gandalf’s Glade. Those committed to huffing it up to the top of the mountain are rewarded with spectacular views courtesy of several balds and knobs, and a snow-encrusted spruce and hemlock forest. Hard-core telemark junkies can scream down Yitzhak Ravine, or practice tele-turns in Boutros-Boutros Gully. The White Grass trail system also provides access to adjacent Dolly Sods wilderness.

Whatever your winter passions may be, after a long day out, be sure to step into the White Grass Café, which instantly conjures up three adjectives — warm, cozy and convivial. “White Grass is a really personal place, everybody knows each other. People always have the feeling when they walk in the door, they can talk to anybody,” Chip says. The café serves food for lunch and dinner, including vegetarian options. Saturday night dinners come with live music by local string bands. Weekends are crowded, so reservations for dinner are recommended.

Where it’s at: About 3½ hours from Pittsburgh; from I-79 and I-68 in Morgantown, WV, take I-68 E to MD 42 south for about 8 miles to US 219 south for about 26 miles to WV 32 south through Davis, WV. You’ll see blue signs for White Grass.

Contact: www.whitegrass.com (also for daily snow condition updates) or (304) 866-4114

Digs: Canaan Valley Resort has winter camping ($18.50), www.canaanresort.com or 1-800-622-4121; The Bright Morning Inn B&B, in Davis, WV, includes a hearty breakfast ($85 and up), www.brightmorninginn.com or (304) 259-5119.

Grub: White Grass Café www.whitegrass.com/cafe or (304) 866-4114 for reservations

Brew: The Purple Fiddle Coffeehouse and Mountain Market in Thomas, WV, hosts regional and national bands and serves Mountain State Brewing Company beer, locally brewed in Thomas, www.purplefiddle.com or (304) 463-4040

Gear and Outfitting: Everything you need, from rental skis to new and used gear for sale, can be found at the White Grass shop.

Cost: $12 day use fee ($3 for kids); rentals run $12-$20 for adults; ski school is $6-$25